An A-Z glossary of suit fabrics and cloth terms

Barathea

A finely textured weave with a subtle pebbled surface, traditional for dinner jackets and formal eveningwear. It reads as solid from a distance but has quiet depth up close.

Bird's eye

A small, uniform dotted pattern created by the weave, each dot resembling a tiny eye. A discreet alternative to a plain cloth that adds texture without pattern.

Cashmere

A soft, warm fibre from the undercoat of cashmere goats. Luxurious and light, often blended with wool for added structure. Prized for overcoats and jackets more than hard-wearing trousers.

Cavalry twill

A tough, steeply ridged twill originally made for riding breeches. Hard-wearing and distinctive, used for trousers and country jackets rather than formal suits.

Cloth weight

How heavy a cloth is, measured in grams per metre or ounces per yard. Lighter cloths (around 250g) travel and breathe; heavier cloths (340g and above) drape better and hold their shape.

Corduroy

A cotton cloth with raised parallel ridges, or wales. Casual and warm, suited to country jackets and trousers rather than business suits.

Flannel

A soft woollen cloth with a lightly brushed surface that hides the weave, giving a warm, matte finish. A cold-weather classic in grey, much loved for its depth and comfort.

Fresco

A high-twist worsted with an open, porous weave that breathes exceptionally well and resists creasing. The cloth of choice for hot climates and summer suiting.

Gabardine

A tightly woven, smooth twill that is durable and weather-resistant. Firm-handed and crisp, historically used for raincoats and structured suits.

Herringbone

A weave of broken diagonal lines that reverse direction in a repeating V, resembling the skeleton of a fish. A subtle, versatile pattern that adds interest to solid colours.

Hopsack

An open, basket-like weave that is breathable and resists creasing, common in blazers. Its loose structure can snag, so it favours jackets over high-wear trousers.

Houndstooth

A bold pattern of broken checks with jagged, tooth-like points, usually in two contrasting colours. Striking in large scale, more wearable in small.

Linen

A cool, breathable fibre made from flax, ideal for hot weather. It creases readily, which is part of its relaxed character rather than a fault.

Mohair

A lustrous, resilient fibre from the angora goat. Often blended with wool to add sheen, crispness, and a cool hand, popular for summer and eveningwear.

Nailhead

A tiny dotted pattern, finer than bird's eye, named for its resemblance to the heads of nails. A near-solid cloth with quiet texture, well suited to business suits.

Pick-and-pick

A weave that alternates two colours of yarn thread by thread, producing a soft, shimmering solid that shifts subtly in the light. A refined choice for a plain suit.

Pinstripe

Fine vertical stripes of single yarns set against a solid ground, the classic of formal business suiting. Wider versions read as bolder and more assertive.

Plain weave

The simplest weave, with threads crossing one over one. Flat and even, it forms the basis of many cloths including poplin and some lightweight suitings.

Sharkskin

A smooth, two-toned weave that appears to change colour as it moves, created by weaving two shades together. Subtle and elegant, a popular alternative to a flat solid.

Super numbers

A measure of the fineness of the wool yarn, written as Super 100s, 120s, and upward. Higher numbers mean finer, smoother, and often more delicate cloth. Higher is not always better for daily wear.

Tweed

A rugged, often flecked woollen cloth from the British Isles, built for warmth and durability. The cloth of country jackets and cold weather, rich in texture and colour.

Twill

A family of weaves identified by diagonal lines running across the cloth. Twills drape well and resist wrinkles, and include serge, gabardine, and cavalry twill.

Vicuña

The rarest and most expensive natural fibre, from a wild relative of the llama. Extraordinarily soft and warm, reserved for the most exclusive overcoats and jackets.

Whipcord

A tough worsted with a pronounced diagonal cord, even firmer than cavalry twill. Extremely hard-wearing, used for outerwear and country trousers.

Woollen

Cloth spun from shorter, carded wool fibres, giving a softer, fuller, hairier finish. Flannel and tweed are woollens. Warmer and more textured than worsted.

Worsted

Cloth spun from longer wool fibres combed parallel before spinning, giving a smooth, fine, durable finish. The basis of most business suiting.

Yarn-dyed

Cloth woven from yarns dyed before weaving, rather than dyed as finished cloth. It produces richer, more lasting colour and crisper patterns.

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